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FRED. S THOMPSON. 



RHUBARB 



PIE PLANT CULTURE. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



THE BEST VARIETIES. 

Essential Points in Growing Good Rhubarb. 



HOW RHUBARB PAYS, COMPARED WITH 
CERTAIN CROPS. 



THE FIRST AND ONLY EDITION ON THIS SUBJECT. 

BY 

FRED. S. THOMPSON, 

BAY VIEW, P. O. Box 24, MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN. 

Supposed to be the largest grower in America of this great pie-producing 

plant, raising yearly one hundred and twenty-five tons or over, 

which would take at least one hundred and twenty 

thousand pounds of sugar to sweeten it. 















MILWAUKEE, WIS.: 

j. H. VEWDALE & SONS CO., PRINTERS. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S94, by 

FRED. S THOMPSON, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, L). C. 









IN 



PAGE. 

7 

Preface A 

The Origin of Rhubarb f 

Selecting the Soil g 

Preparing the Soil t? 

Setting Out the Roots £? 

Manure and How to Apply it -« 

Care of the Young Bed £* 

Tending in the Fall ^ 



Tending in the Spring. . . 

Preparing and Marketing the Crop °& 

Trimming the Roots as they Grow Larger 



Forcing Rhubarb • ■ j£ 

My Plan of Forcing Rhubarb in Greenhouses 4- 

Forcing Rhubarb in Hot Beds *° 

The Varieties • • • • •• • • • ™ 

How Rhubarb Pays, Compared with Certain Crops. „ ... &b 
Digging and Separating Roots for Setting out New Beds 64 

Packing the Roots for Shipping • • •••■••• ™j 

Essential Points in the Production of Good Rhubarb. . . . bb 

Rhubarb Out West °° 

Receipts for the Uses of Rhubarb jj» 

Pie Plant Wine ^? 

Rhubarb Tart ' { 

Rhubarb Pie ' } 

Canning Rhubarb ' £ 

Rhubarb Jelly '" 

Rhubarb Sauce '| 

Rhubarb Jam '^ 

Reliable Seedsmen ........ . . . • • • '« 

Time Required for Vegetable Seeds to Germinate 74 

Quantity of Seed Gardeners Generally Sow to an Acre. . . 74 

Standard Weights of Various Articles. <* 

Required Number of Trees, Plants, etc., to Set an Acre. . <5 

Closing Remarks '3 

Hot W T ater Boilers „g 

Seed Potatoes 78 

Rhubarb Roots 7q 

Ventilating Apparatus ' * 

Potato Bug Sprinkler 



preface* 

In writing this little treatise to the public, I hope 
it may be the cause of encouraging and assisting my 
fellow friends and gardeners, as well as farmers and 
amateurs, throughout the globe, to grow this most 
profitable vegetable. And I earnestly invite the 
careful perusal of this treatise, by market gardeners 
who are near cities and large towns, where a market 
for this product can be found, that will greatly 
reward the grower. Of all the early vegetables that 
find their way to the market in early spring, there is 
none that receive so great a demand as this 
most useful and wholesome plant. Since its intro- 
duction in England, from Padua, early in the seven- 
teenth century, and afterwards into this country of 
which we have no authentic account, it has steadily 
grown in popularity as a delicious and indispensible 
plant for culinary purposes. People, rich and poor 
alike, seldom do without it. Although it is a cheap 
and common article of food, it steadily grows more 
in demand. I am glad that it does, for it not only 
fills the place of a delicacy, but if at times freely and 
properly used, it has a medical action upon the 
constitution as well, and may save much expense 
and advice from physicians. What makes it more 
valuable to the consumer is its great bulk for little 
expense, and many people may not yet be aware 
that they might not only save this trifling cost, but 
have it in their little gardens, where it could be had 



PREFACE. 

fresh at their will, which is the most important 
object in the flavor of all vegetables, if they only 
had a little experience, in its simple, and most profit- 
able culture. This is one reason why I have 
written this little treatise, to place before the public. 
Now, as Rhubarb, or "Pie Plant," as it is commonly 
called, is becoming one of the most popular and 
extensive plants grown, it should receive more 
attention towards its good merits, and exceedingly 
more in growing it, by all gardeners, as well as by 
private families and farmers. It is now grown and 
cultivated largely for market purposes, in and around 
all large cities and towns, and even few private families 
are without it. It is a plant that may be adapted to 
almost any soil, providing the conditions and oppor- 
tunities offered, either existing naturally or artificially 
applied. Being a hardy perennial plant, it may be 
grown on the same ground for years without renewal by 
special care being given. The soil most suitable for 
Rhubarb, as for most root crops is a black sandy 
loam; whatever the soil may be, it should be loosened 
very deeply to have success. I quite frequently 
receive letters from my fellow gardeners besides 
those who are ordering roots, asking for informa- 
tion on growing Rhubarb. As it is impossible to 
give a sufficient knowledge of growing by letter, 
I send out this little treatise in which I hope I have 
covered everything pertaining to this subject that 
is necessary to insure success. 



RHUBARB CULTURE. 




THE ORIGIN OF RHUBARB. 

^3gg| HE Rhubarb commonly grown for com- 
mercial purposes under the name of 
Pie Plant is called by the botanist 
" Rheum Rhaponticum"; it is also called 
English Rhubarb and is a native of 
southern Siberia in Asia. Having been cultivated 
early in the seventeenth century at Padua, whence it 
was brought to England, the first plant being raised 
there about the year sixteen hundred and twenty-eight. 
It is also grown for medical purposes. The real 
source of the Russian or Turkey Rhubarb, however, is 
"Rheum Palmatum," first found wild in China in eigh- 
teen hundred and seventy-three. Another species fur- 
nishing commercial Rhubarb is "Rheum Officinale," 
also a native of China. There are also many gar- 
den varieties of ''Rheum Phaponticum," as plants 
from seed show a great deal of variation. 

SELECTING THE SOIL. 

Until recently it was supposed that Rhubarb was 
adapted to a black or sandy loam, but being an 
exception to most all other roots it does well on any 
ordinary soil, if drained artificially or otherwise, and 
properly cared for. For early picking in the spring 



10 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

it should be set out in a black sand or gravelly soil; 
if possible, on a side hill facing the southeast. In 
this location it will keep off the cold north winds 
which prevail during its early growth, and it will 
also receive the full benefit of the spring sun. Set 
out under these directions, and manured heavily in 
this latitude, it will be ready for market the latter 
part of April, when it will bring an exceedingly 
high price. For later picking I prefer a black or clay 
soil, the former producing a little earlier and more 
abundantly, but not quite so large. On the whole, I 
would recommend a black sandy loam, although a 
clay soil is exceedingly good, and preferred by some, 
to using their best ground for Rhubarb. If the soil 
is light and rich the roots grow very rapidly; so as 
the roots increase in size the stalks diminish ; when 
the latter becomes apparent, the roots should be 
trimmed. There is a great improvement on the old 
method, as when the roots got too large, they would 
dig them up and re-set a new bed. This requires a 
great deal of extra labor, also a loss of ground for 
two seasons, in recrusting the new bed. After a bed 
is once set out, the former is now entirely done away 
with and trimming is universally resorted to in 
keeping up the bed. When necessary to set out in 
low wet ground, it should be well drained, ditches 
being from two and a half to four feet below the sur- 
face and as wide as you think necessary. In these, 
two-inch tile should be placed, close together on a 
gradual fall towards the outlet, covering each joint 
with clay or sod. Do not cover with sand until you 
have finished the former or the sand will be apt to 
fill up the tile. If the land is marshy or receives 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 11 

great quantities of water from other sources, three or 
four inch tile may be used in the same way; these 
are more expensive and are not necessary in common 
drainage. A much cheaper and quicker way of 
draining is done by using hemlock boards: these 
may often be obtained when the common tile can 
not. These boards are six inches wide, one inch 
thick and any length to suit drain, generally sixteen 
feet long. Nail two boards edge to edge or in the 
shape of a letter V, putting the wide part down ; on 
the top part of the drain, representing the top of 
letter V, should be nailed two-inch cleets accross the 




drain every four feet apart, this making it the shape 
of a triangle. These may be laid in the ditch, fiat 
side down, filling as before. Where a private road 
crosses such a drain or in fact any artificial dram, 
boards or planks should be placed over the drain, to 
distribute the pressure before putting on the soil. 
This is a much cheaper and easier way to drain, be- 
ing practiced by many. The boards will usually 
last from ten to twenty years, although when they 
rot the drains are seldom rendered useless as the 
water settling through the ground, packs the soil so 
tight over the boards that it leaves an opening the 
same size as before; the general opinion is, that tile 
will last the longest. But I think there is little 
difference in their age. In very sandy soil or in quick 
sand, tile is preferable. Board drains may also be 



12 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

made square or triangular, simular to Fig. No. 2, 
only nail the bottom boards on lengthwise which is 
much quicker than nailing them crosswise and will 
answer, I think as well, as I have tried them in all 
shapes. Draining is an important object in raising 
Rhubarb or any other agriculture crop and should 
be well and thoroughly done in all and every part; 
it is very costly and if only one obstruction should 
occur, weeks of hard work might be lost. If you in- 
tend to use sod or pasture land, it should be worked 
at least one season, allowing the sod to thoroughly 
decay; Clover sod or rye ground, worked one season 
previous, is excellent. 

PREPARING THE SOIL. 

As there are so many different soils and sub-soils, 
and all being treated not alike, I will attempt to state 
the full particulars of each. When sand or gravelly 
soil is to be used in the spring it should be heavily 
manured with well rotted barnyard manure or muck. 
Plowed deep early in the spring. It may then be 
harrowed and crushed and is then ready to set out. 
[ would recommend the " All Steel Flexible Har- 
row " for this purpose, which is shown in Fig. No. 3. 

If it is to be transplanted in the fall, an early crop 
of vegetables is generally raised, such as early peas, 
early sweet corn, early potatoes, etc.; otherwise it 
may be treated vise versa. Sod or pasture land 
should be plowed deep and cultivated at least one 
season before setting out the roots, to allow the sod 
to thoroughly decay; if not the sod will give trouble 
in the young bed and be a nuisance in digging the 
holes for planting. The following figure represents 



BY FRED S. THOMPSON. 



13 




Fig. No. 3. 

Buffalo Pitts' All Steel Flexible Disk Harrow. 
Sold By Hirsch Bros., Milwaukee, Wis. 



14 



RHUBARB CULTURE. 



the plow which may be used for this purpose, or any 
other similar to this. 




Fig. No. 4. 

Scotchman Plow. 

Sold by Hirsch Bros., Milwaukee, Wis. 

When a hard clay soil is to be dealt with it must 
be heavily manured with coarse barnyard manure, 
muck or hops partly decomposed, plowed deep and 
left to decay. When once decayed it will leave the 
ground light and appliable, when it may be har- 
rowed with a disk harrow and leveled with a drag 
which is represented in Fig. No. 5. It can now be 
crushed and the rows marked. 




Fig. No. 5. 
Smoothing Harrow Drag. 



BY FRED S. THOMPSON. 15 

Black loam should be treated in like manner, 
using any good manure or fertilizer that can be had. 
A top dressing of wood ashes, say fifty bushels to 
the acre, or old composts, bone meal or hen manure 
would be very beneficial and aught to be used in all 
cases when it can be had at a reasonable price. 

SETTING OUT THE ROOTS. 

Transplanting Rhubarb in beds forming new 
plantations is of considerable importance. The cost 
of the roots, whether bought or raised, the size and 
healthiness of the roots or buds to gain rapidly and 
produce fine beds, the state of the soil, the proper 
season and the proper way to transplant them is 
sufficient advice of the necessity to have every part 
properly performed when forming permanent beds 
to continue from ten to twenty years or more, and 
produce profitable crops. 

Two more important objects are to have them at a 
proper distance apart and to have the plants or buds 
from a division of the old roots. These will grow 
much quicker than those grown from seed. Rhubarb 
roots are very vigorous and will often grow when 
entirely out of ground. Although this is true the 
roots should receive good care when transplanting, 
and as well after for one or two seasons. The young 
roots or buds may be set out in the spring or fall, or 
even in the early part of summer, according to the 
condition of the soil, or the necessity of having it for 
market at the earliest possible date. In the south, 
fall is preferable on account of the rains. The roots 
should be set out not less than three by four feet, and 
if more ground can be spared I would advise four by 



16 



RHUBARB CULTURE. 



four feet. As it is a monstrous plant it needs plenty 
of room for nature to grow it, and besides it is much 
handier when picking for market. Whatever may 
be the distance, the weight of the crop is about the 
same, if the hills are only kept at a proper distance 
apart; but crowded Rhubarb beds produce late and 
smaller crops of very inferior quality and appearance, 
besides they are much more quickly exhausted. 
They require more manure and their cultivation is 
much more difficult and costly. We have therefore 
everything to loose and nothing to gain by not plant- 
ing the roots at a sufficient distance apart. The rows 
can be set straight by using a line or reel, which is 
quicker than marking out with hand or horse-mark- 
ers. Reels can be bought very cheap. Fig. No. 6 
represents a garden reel such as most commonly 
used. A line for this purpose may be made by sim- 
ply attaching a rope or sheep twine to two sharpened 
sticks to be stuck in the ground, 
one at each end of the intended 
row, and pull the rope tight to 
make it straight. The rows may 
be made any length desired. There 
should be eight in width in each 
bed. When necessary to have 
several beds together, an alley of 
eight or ten feet, "the larger the 
better," should be left between each 
for wagon purposes. The two most essential tilings 
for leaving an alley are: First, manure can be 
hauled in the winter or early in the spring, thrown 
in piles along the alleys and left there until the frost 
comes out of the ground, when it can be spread in 




Fig. No. 6. 

Garden Line Reel. 



BY FRED S. THOMPSON. 



17 



the furrows with forks or used for mulching. This 
will not retard the growth of the plant as it would if 
hauled on the beds in the winter, which would keep 
in the frost and make the crop late, or to haul heavy 
loads over the beds in the spring when the frost is 
coming out, would be likely to cut in and injure the 
roots. Second, there must be some way to convey 
the Rhubarb, after it is pulled, to a shed or some 
other convenient place, where it can be fixed for 
market. So when several beds are grown together, 
it is necessary to have an alley between each of them. 
This way it may be pulled and laid in the rows next 
to the alley, where it is gathered with a wagon and 
carried to a place for tying. The holes to transplant 
in can be made with a spade, a shovel, or a hoe, the 
former being the best and quickest. After the soil 
is prepared and the roots are divided and trimmed, 
which will be explained in the following section: 
The buds may then be set out, first mixing with the 
soil two or three shovels full of well-rotted manure 
for each plant. As the roots are inclined to grow up, 
the crown should be set level with the surface. A 
hoe can be used to pull in the dirt around the roots, 
pressing it down with your hands or feet firmly, 
which will tend to hold in the moisture. Always 
draw on a little loose dirt after pressing, to keep the 
soil from cracking. The stalks from the new bed 
should not be pulled until the third season, then a 
crop may be marketed that will reward all labor that 
has been expended. Rhubarb is generally propo- 
gated by dividing the roots which grow in clumps, 
each eye or bud being attached to a root, which on 
separation forms a plant. Setting out a great many 



18 BHUBARB CULTURE. 

in this way is very expensive for new beginners, as 
the roots are rarely to be purchased under one hun- 
dred to one hundred and fifty dollars per one thou- 
sand plants, and as about two thousand,- seven hun- 
dred and twenty-two plants are required for an acre, 
quite an outlay is necessary. This expense may be 
diminished by raising the plants from seed, instead 
of dividing the old roots. It is now generally known 
that this useful vegetable can be raised from seed 
nearly as quick as by planting the roots. In the 
north seed may be sown in the open field or garden 
the latter part of April, in drills sixteen inches apart, 
if the plants are to be reset again. If you intend to 
leave them where they are sown, the rows must be 
four feet apart and the plants thinned out to three 
feet in the row. This plan requires the occupation 
of the land too long and should not be practiced. 
The best way is to sow in drills fourteen or sixteen 
inches apart and reset them when they are one year 
old. As the seed is very slow to germinate, the 
ground should be well rolled after seeding to hold in 
the moisture. The most suitable soil for a seed bed 
is a black, sandy loam, enriched with old composts 
or well-rotted barn-yard manure. This should be 
well pulverized and loosened, leaving the soil as level 
as possible before sowing. Plants from the seed bed 
should be reset at one or two years old (one year old 
plants preferred), in their final beds either in the 
spring or fall. In this latitude I would recommend 
the spring or very early in the fall (about the latter 
part of August), so they can recruit up in their new 
beds before cold weather appears. The first and sec- 
ond seasons after planting no stalks should be picked, 



BY FRED S. THOMPSON. 



19 



as it weakens the roots, but the third season a full 
harvest may be expected, if proper attention has 
been given to cultivation. The productiveness of 
the bed, whether set out by the division of the old 
roots or roots raised from seed, will continue for 
twenty years by this wide system of planting, re- 
course being given to manuring freely annually by 




Fig. No. 7. 



Roots from division of 
the old hill. 



Roots propagated from 
seed. 



digging or plowing it in around the roots before the 
crop has started to grow, or in the fall after the crop 
has been marketed. No, reliance can be placed on 
the seed producing the identical variety of its parent. 
Fig. No. 7 represents roots from seed and roots from 
division of the old hill. 



20 RHUBARB CULTURE. 



MANURE AND HOW TO APPLY IT, 

Rhubarb, as with all other roots, delights in the 
richest and greatest quantity of manure, you can give 
it. It is a rank feeder, and therefore, profitable and 
marketable. Crops cannot be grown unless you supply 
their wants. This is one of the most important 
points in Rhubarb culture, and in fact, all other 
vegetables. See how long you can live without 
eating, or how long you can keep up your vitality 
with little food that is not digestable. Although 
vegetables cannot talk and tell you their wants, or 
you cannot see them eat, it is of as much necessity 
to feed them as it is yourself. It is the second coat of 
manure you put on your land before you plant it 
that gives you the profit. You can put a thousand 
pounds of bone meal on an acre of potatoes and get 
a fair yield, but if you increase it twice, and put on 
two thousand pounds per acre, then you can see the 
profit, therefore the more highly the cultivation is 
performed, the more productive the crop will be. 
Chemists tell us that there is a difference in the 
composition of all roots and that there is a place 
therefore for special manures. Although their com- 
position is so nearly alike, animal manure which 
contains a greater or less proportion of the required 
element substances, but not in a sufficient and digest- 
able form, for certain vegetables. This may be rem- 
edied by applying certain special fertilizers having the 
required elements needed. As for an example, 
Parsnips contain: 



BY FRED S. THOMPSON. 2l 

46.7 Potash, 2.7 Soda, 15.7 Lime, .6 Magnesia, 
1.3 Oxide of Iron, 15.8 Phosphoric acid, 5.6 Sulporic 
acid, 2.4 Slica, 4. Chlorine. 

Now, fresh horse manure analyzed is found to 
contain: 

71.3 Water, .5 Nitrogen, 10.5 Slica, .7 Oxide of 
Iron, .5 Lime, .4 Potash, .1 Soda, .5 Phosphoric 
acid, .1 Chlorine. 

Barn manure is here lacking in food of three 
needed elements, Phosporic acid, Potash and Lime. 
Now for parsnips after applying a certain amount of 
barn manure, it should have a mixed chemical 
fertilizer containing the three essential substances 
missing, Potash, Phosphoric acid and Lime. Mixed 
fertilizers especially prepared for all kinds of vege- 
tables can be purchased from several reliable firms, 
such as the Bouker Fertilizing Company of Boston, 
Mass., Mapes or Baker Fertilizing Company of New 
York, also Johnson & Co., Soap Manufacturers of 
Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Rhubarb leaves and stalks 
do not contain a great deal of fertilizing matter, 
probably less than one-third per cent, of Nitrogen, 
less than one-fourth per cent, of Potash and less than 
one-eight per cent. Phosphoric acid. Still, as we 
want a great quantity of produce from a given area 
and this produced within a few weeks time we will 
see the necessity of making the soil rich in all kinds 
of plant food. Potash probably will be as necessary 
as anything and as much as nitrogen, a compost of 
night soil, muck and hard wood ashes will be of 
especial benefit, but any kind of good complete 
manure such as old compost will be of especial 
benefit if it is only put on in big enough quantities. 



22 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

CJay soil, black heavy soil, or shallow soils having a 
hard sub-soil or any ground having the texture of 
the soil to close should be sufficiently lightened, and 
made porus by applications of large quantities of 
manure, such as cow manure when bedded with corn 
stalks and fermented with horse manure but which 
have not rotted. Coarse horse manure or that which 
is filled with coarse straw or marsh hay and applied 
in the "Green State" or before it has decayed will 
loosen the soil and make it porus and easy to cul- 
tivate. Although there is not so much strength or 
nourishment as in well rotted manure or compost, but 
when soils are in such condition as I have stated, they 
must first be loosened and made porus. Hard clay 
soils treated in this way in two or three years will be 
mellow enough for small vegetables, if applied in 
large enough quantities, which should be done in 
all cases of this kind. When the soil is once thor- 
oughly lightened, then rotten manure composts, or 
special fertilizers, may be used with better results. 
As the manure is applied in the furrows between the 
rows, coarse litter of any kind may be spread in 
them and worked as easy as if composts were applied. 
This little point makes it very handy for gardeners 
as they can apply to their Rhubarb with good results 
any coarse litter they may have, and use their com- 
post, rotten manure and fetilizer for smaller vegeta- 
bles which require more nursing to produce them. 
Besides, when applying coarse manure, to small 
vegetables, or on ground to be sewed, it is continually 
bothering in the seeder or other parts of its cultiva- 
tion. Soils, sub-soils and situation differ and so must 
practice also, as when sandy soils are used, or light 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 23 

black soil, there must be applied fertilizers or manure 
containing more strength. Sandy, or gravelly soils, 
will not hold fertilizing substances any length of 
time unless there is a hard sub-soil near the surface, 
If the soil and sub-soil are porous the rains will 
continually wash the nourishing ingredients down 
out of the reach of all crops. As this is the case 
very often, and nearly always so in some parts of 
the country manure composts and fertilizers, should 
be used freely, continually and at the right time. 
In these soils, fertilizers may be used with great 
results as no manure being necessary to loosen the 
soil, but it must be applied with a liberal hand; as 
the quantity of roots you take out from the ground 
depends on the quantity of nourishment or food you 
give the ground. In open winters manure should 
not be spread on the ground as when freezing and 
thawing continually, and rain of several days dura- 
tion, will wash away a great quantity of the fertilizing 
food you wish for your spring crop. Manure, when 
hauled from cities or even what is made from your 
own stock should be put in piles and made into com- 
posts by mixing different manure together, and let 
it slightly ferment then turn it over and so on, con- 
tinually breaking up all lumps and making it fine. 
This, if properly done will have twice the strength as 
if put on in the "green state." When it is left in piles 
it should not be left too long before it is turned over 
or spread upon the land for if it burns "or fire fangs" 
it is almost worthless for fertilizing as the strength is 
burnt and gone. The same case applies to the 
amonia contained in manure as when left to heat, or 
wood ashes is spread on manure and is not covered 



24 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

over afterwards very thickly with manure or dirt 
the ashes will set the amonia free and will be taken 
up in the air. This is an important rule and should 
be remembered: never put wood ashes with manure 
unless covered over deeply with some substance, if 
not it will set the amonia free and this is an import- 
ant ingredient of a fertilizer. The great error in the 
cultivation of Rhubarb, is to starve it. By many 
cultivators when every other crop has had its share 
and the manure heap has been used up the Rhubarb 
bed is forgotten and about the only food depended 
on for the coming crop being the partly decayed 
leaves and stalks, the atmosphere and what little 
substances the soil yet contains. No wonder under 
such treatment the crop is small, the Rhubarb small 
and the results unsatisfactory. Another error of the 
opposite extreme is one often committed by market 
gardeners who have learned that no paying crop can 
be grown without liberal feeding, who give all the 
food necessary, but do not allow sufficient room for it 
to grow under such cultivation, and as it is a 
perennial plant they have formed an idea that the 
soil needs no loosening whatever and consequently 
the bed is deprived for years without thorougly 
loosening the soil or feeding it. Night soil when 
used should be mixed with other manures in the 
form of a compost, though it may be applied fresh 
if care is taken to mix it thoroughly with soil. 

CARE OF THE YOUNG BED. 

The bed should be kept clear of weeds giving all 
the advantages to the young roots. This may be 
done by hoeing and cultivating at intervals of a 



BY FRED S. THOMPSON. 25 

week or so during the season. The rows should be 
hoed with a four-tined potato hook or prong hoe, 
which is by far better than a common hoe to loosen 
the soil around the plant and between the plants. 
Fig. No. 8 represents the prong hoe generally used. 




Fig. No. v 
Prong Hue. 



The weeds that come up close to the plants must 
of necessity be pulled out by the hand. The Planet 
Jr. Cultivator or any other good cultivator may be 
applied between the rows and alleys, not letting the 
weeds get too high, as when they are young and 
tender the sun will work destructively on them. 
Fig. No. 9 represents the Planet Jr. Cultivator used 
by most all gardeners for general purposes. Warm 
weather and a few rains after the roots or buds are 
transplanted will start them to growing, throwing 
out shoots which will soon break, leaving the little 
stalks perceptable, which will not grow large the first 
vear. When the stalks are five or six inches Ions: it 
can be mulched with coarse barn manure, covering 
the space between the rows, and putting it close 
around the hill. This will hold in the moisture 
which will add greatly to its growth in case of a dry 



26 



RHUBARB CULTURE. 



season, besides destroying the germinating weeds 
and greatly increase the growth of the crop. 

The stalks producing the seed draw heavily on 
the roots and should be cut off as soon as visible, 
about a foot from the ground, using any knife that 
you wish, being careful not to cut the other stalks. 
When land is infested with twitch or quack grass it 
may be destroyed by thoroughly working the soil 




Fig. No. 9. 

Planet Jr., Horse Hoe and Cultivator. 

once or twice a week during the season; following these 
instructions will usually kill the patch. It may also 
be dug up with a six-tined fork by loosening the 
ground throughly around the infected patch, then 
pull out with the hands, if any breaks off, the 
remaining part should be dug up. This plan is 
profitable when in small patches, as it may be 
entirely dug up and destroyed. In some parts of 



BY FRED S. THOMPSON. 27 

the country Canada thistles abound. The best plan 
to destroy small patches is by putting a handful of 
coarse salt on each thistle, this should be repeated as 
they sprout up. One handful of salt on ^, thistle 
will almost always kill that part of the root, although 
the same root may run two or three feet in length 
and sprout up in another place. Therefore the patch 
should be watched and every one coming up salted. 
For large patches this would be rather laborious, so I 
would advise thoroughly working the soil. Culti- 
vating once a week during the season this will gen- 
erally rid the ground of the obnoxious weed. These 
two pests should be kept entirely out of the Rhubarb 
bed and all small vegetables. 

TENDING IN THE FALL. 

As soon as the stalks die down the beds should be 
gone over and all weeds and grasses pulled up or 
hoed out by the roots, put in piles between the rows, 
where they may be gathered up with baskets. Carry 
them out of the beds, put them in a big pile and 
burn them. When this is done you may rest 
assured they will never return. This will save lots 
of work in the busy spring when your time is 
needed in sowing other crops. If the bed or beds 
have only been picked lightly and a heavy crop of 
stalks and leaves left to decay during the winter, the 
frost will be held in by the massive leaves, making 
the crop late. As I have stated, when applying 
manure in the fall. This may be obviated by raking 
them off with a horse rake. This when dry will 
make good bedding for cattle. This plan applies 
only to beds that have been picked very sparingly or 



28 



RHUBARB CULTURE. 



those that have formed a heavy crop after you have 
quit marketing. Otherwise I would leave them on 
as it takes the strength from the ground to produce 
them, so when left to decay the substance will enter 
the soil and be taken up by the roots the following 
spring in producing a crop for market. This way 
the land will lose no strength as the ingredients are 
retained in the soil, besides making it more light and 
appliable. The latter part of fall, before the ground 




Fig. No. 10. 

Bissells' Swivel Plow. 

Sold by Hirsch Bros., .Milwaukee, Wis. 

freezes, there should be a furrow plowed close to each 
row turning back the soil. If a swivel plow can be 
had and the rows run east and west the furrows 
should be turned from left to right leaving the soil 
that is turned back facing the south, although this 
may seem simple the irost will come out much 
quicker in the spring than if facing the north. If 
the rows should run north and south the furrows 



BY FRED S. THOMPSON. 



29 



should face the east. Fig. No, 10 shows an improved 
swivel plow to be used for this purpose, they are also 
very handy for market gardeners when plowing 
small pieces between other crops as the furrows can 
all be turned one way. Fig. No. 11 represents the 
way the beds are left in the fall, and the necessity of 
the alleys. 




^mM 



$&^£??&£l 



*,■%«*£ j>* 



m^^--^. 









Fig. No. 11. 

Rhubarb Beds Prepared for Winter. 

If a swivel plow can not be had most any good two 
horse plow will answer the purpose, but half of the 
furrows will have to be turned the wrong way if you 
go around the bed, if you plow only one way it is too 
slow work. As the profits of all crops are generally 




30 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

governed by the earliness they are brought in market 
all facts pertaining to their earliness should be carried 
out when growing it for profit. When raising it for 
family use in small gardens simpler plans would be 
more convenient. "This will be explained in the 
preceding pages under the head of Essential points in 
growing good Rhubarb." 

TENDING IN THE SPRING. 

If the Rhubarb is to be pulled early for market, it 
should be tended immediately in the spring, filling 
up the furrows that were plowed in the fall, with 
manure, prepared composts, or muck. It is not al- 
ways prudent to use your richest manure for Rhu- 
barb, as it may be needed more on your smaller 
vegetables. Course manure such as cornstalks, coarse 
marsh hay, fresh straw, or any course litter may be 
used with good results ; although it is not so rich in 
food as the former, yet it will keep the soil light the 
whole season, making it an easy matter for the 
young rootlets to penetrate through the soil in search 
for food. This being done, turn the ridges back 
with a one-horse plow which will cover up the 
manure, this time leaving a smaller furrow; use 
about one-third as much manure as in the first, then 
cover this up by drawing on the dirt with a prong 
hoe, this will leave the ground almost level. Fig. 
No. 12 shows a one-horse plow that can be used for 
this purpose. 

If course litter has been used, leave it a little 
higher between the rows to allow for settling, when 
it decays. The ground between and around the hills 
should now be loosened with a four-tined prong hoe, 



BY FRED S. THOMPSON. 



31 



being careful not to hook into the roots. All weeds 
and grass should be hoed up and carried out of the 
beds. If very fine manure or fertilizers are to be 
used, it should be spread between the rows and cul- 
tivated in the soil. This being a good deal of labor, 
some people simply mulch the beds with coarse 
manure covering the entire ground, being careful 
not to cover up the hills as it will make the stalks 
crooked. This is a good way to treat young beds but 
not advisable for old ones, as in the latter the ground 




Fig. No. 12. 

Bissells' Oliver Plow. 

Sold by Hirsch Bros., Milwaukee, Wis. 

should be loosened up at least once a year. How- 
ever, this is a good plan after the other rules have 
been carried out in the spring. Good judgment 
should be used in applying fertilizers, using accord- 
ing to their strength and size of bed. Patches of 
Canada thistles and quack or twitch grass should re- 
ceive special care in this part of the spring, by dig- 
ging up all the roots possible. This should not be 
neglected, as if it once gets the start of you, it is use- 
less to bother with it. 



32 EHUBARB CULTURE. 



PREPARING AND MARKETING THE CROP. 

Rhubarb should not be picked for market before 
the third season after it has been transplanted, allow- 
ing the roots the full benefit of the soil, so as to get 
well and firmly established before making a very free 
use of the stalks; as every stalk pulled, takes so 
much substance away from the roots. After the 
specified time, if it has been manured heavily, it 
may be picked continually during the Rhubarb sea- 
son, which lasts in this latitude from the latter part 
of April till the forepart of July, making it about ten 
weeks in all. This makes a very long season when 
you can pick continually. The stalks of the first 
picking are seldom larger than five or seven inches 
long, and may be pulled still shorter if there is a 
good demand, as the earliest pickings give the most 
profits; and the stalks being small and easy to 
handle, besides drawing less strength from the roots. 
The stalks are pulled out of the hill by placing the 
hand close to the bottom of each stalk, pull upward in 
the direction it is growing and they will come out easily 
and avoid breaking. Although these little rules may 
seem foolish, yet they are essential. New beginners 
in pulling, unless they are cautioned by experienced 
ones, generally place their hand around the center 
of the stalk if they are long and brittle, as they gen- 
erally are in the latter part of the season and espe- 
cially so after a rain, this plan would break a great 
many. Therefore if new beginners are cautioned 
about this simple but essential plan, it will avoid a 
great waste. The price paid for help in preparing 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 33 

this crop for market, ranges from fifty cents to one 
dollar and a half per day, the former being for 
young boys and girls. When it is pulled it may be 
put in small piles along the rows, of about sixty or 
seventy stalks each, it requiring about that many for 
an armful, this will make it handy in gathering. If 
put in too large piles it would have to be divided be- 
fore carrying, making unnecessary labor, besides 
breaking it more or less in extra handling. Linnaeus 
and Victoria are very brittle and should be left in the 
sun after being picked, till wilted enough to handle 
without breaking. When this is performed it may be 
carried to some place for preparing it for market. 
If it is only a short distance it might be carried to 
the place by the armful, this plan is generally prac- 
ticed when raised by the quantity, having the house 
which is built for that purpose, located in the central 
part of the plantation between the beds, making it 
accessible from all points. If it is not so convenient 
it may be piled in a two-wheeled cart, a truck or 
common wagon, the truck-wagon being handy to 
load and unload, when any of such conveyances as 
you see fit to use are filled, it may be taken most 
any distance you find convenient, if properly covered 
and watered, to keep it from the rays of the hot sun. 
This is generally practiced when raised in small 
quantities, quite a distance from sheds or barns, and 
of course would have to be conveyed the same way 
if raised in larger quantities, unless other houses 
were built. When it is to be grown extensively, 
there should be a house built on purpose for prepar- 
ing it for market, as it would be impossible to pre- 
pare large quantities in a proper manner without a 



34 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

building built for that purpose. Although built for 
the preparation of Rhubarb, it will never be found 
out of use, as all vegetables may be brought to this 
building and prepared in like manner as Rhubarb. 
As for an example: Early Beats, Early Carrots, 
Radishes, Asparagus, Parsley and winter bunch 
onions, all these are sold in bunches in the spring 
and early summer; all kinds of herbs that are sold 
by the dozen or hundred bunches, would have to be 
tied and packed in boxes, and all of these must be 
kept out of the sun as soon as they are taken from 
the ground. It would certainly be impossible with- 
out such a building to properly prepare these vege- 
tables. It may be used in the fall for drying onions 
and all kinds of herbs in case of early frosts. 
Squashes, pumpkins and all vegetables that would 
be injured by the frosts, could be put in the same 
building till convenient to market them. To bring 
it into use the whole year, the machinery can be left 
there during the winter, and all tools and implements 
of all kinds should be sheltered during the winter to 
keep them from rusting. Such a building may be 
built in the following manner: Eighteen feet wide 
by thirty-six feet long. The room for preparing 
should be eight feet high and the roof any height 
desired. There should be two tables, each three feet 
wide, three feet high and thirteen feet and a half 
long, both placed in one row six feet from one of the 
sides, leaving three spaces of three feet each, one 
between the building and table at each end, and one 
between the two tables for passways. This will leave 
six feet wide on one side of the tables and nine feet 
wide on the other side. On the former side there 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 35 

should be one sliding door in the center of the build- 
ing, on the outside, this is to be used when loading. 
On the latter side there should be two sliding doors, 
one at each end of the building. Two or three win. 
dows on each side will be sufficient. These should 
be provided with curtains to keep out the sun, but 
thin enough to let in the required light. Over the 
tables and next to the ceiling should be placed a 
shelf, to keep the twine and knives when not in use. 
A well should be dug on one end of the building, so 
that a force pump and hose can be applied, to water 
the Rhubarb and other vegetables. The building 
should be so constructed, that a stove could be used 
if necessary, on cold rainy days, as is generally the 
case in the early part of spring. The space nine feet 
wide, is used when the Rhubarb is brought from the 
beds, here it is piled next to the side of the building, 
If the weather is very warm it may be watered to 
keep it from wilting. Then the sheath or loose skin 
at the but end of the stalks are stripped oft. As this 
is finished, it is put on the table. Two persons are 
required, who stand side by side; one bunches it, 
the bunches varrying in size, according to the 
demand in the market, generally from two to five 
stalks in each. A little experience will be found 
necessary before the bunches can be made nearly the 
same size. The buncher than hands it to the second 
person who ties it with two ply jute twine, winding 
the string around the center of each bunch twice if 
to be tied after in dozen bunches one tie on each 
bunch will be sufficient. The string may be cut off 
with any small sharp knife. As this is performed 
the second person gives it a little toss on the table sa 



36 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

as to be able to tie fifteen or twenty dozens before it 
has to be cut off. Then the third person cuts the 
leaves off with a large knife such as used by butchers. 
The leaves are trimmed off to a point to make the 
bunches look long besides it gives them a nice 
appearance. 

Fig. No. 13 shows two bunches of Mammoth Red 
Rhubarl) tied for market with one tie of two ply jute 
twine: The three upper balls of twine are two ply 
jute. The lower three balls are wool twine used to 
tie the loose stalks in dozen bunches, also to tie the 
small bunches in dozen bunches. This twine is the 
cheapest and strongest for such purposes to be obtained 
in Milwaukee, it is also used for tieing all other early 
vegetables. It is then piled up on the floor opposite 
the tables on each side of the door. Here it is left 
till ready to load for market. The piles should be 
watered occasionally to keep the Rhubarb fresh. 
Great caution should be taken when preparing it to 
be shipped. Should it spoil it would be quite an 
expense to the sender. Although it can not be 
classed with fruit it will perish quite easy if not prop- 
erly prepared. By all means it should not be shipped 
in too bulky a form. When preparing it for 
shipping, the leaves should be cut off close to the 
stalks, this will partly avoid heating. The sheath 
should be pulled off at the butt end of the stalks 
which will make the bunches look cleaner and all 
together will make it less bulky. 

The Express or Freight being expensive it should 
be as clean as possible only shipping that part which 
can be consumed. It may be packed loose or in 
small bunches in barrels or boxes. Large quantities 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 



37 



are being shipped from the south to the northern 
markets every season. Home raised Rhubarb when 
sold by the dozen bunches in Milwaukee brings from 




Fig. No. 13. 

Mammoth Red Rhubarb bunched for market. 
Two ply jute twine and wool twine for tieing. 

fifteen cents to one dollar per dozen, the latter being 
for Green House ' stock. The standard price being 
about twenty cents per dozen bunches. We sell 



38 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

about ten thousand dozens in Milwaukee annually, 
ours generally being preferred to others, it being the 
largest grown, as we have the best varieties, which are 
fertilized and receive the highest of cultivation. 
We have sold large quantities of Rhubarb for wine. 
In eighteen hundred and eighty nine we shipped 
nineteen tons to be used for that purpose, after we 
were through selling by the dozen at our home 
market. The price paid by the Ton ranges from 
fifteen to twenty dollars. The receipt I have given 
ior making Rhubarb wine will be found of much 
importance to those wishing to make this kind of 
wine. Fig. No. 14 represents a partial view of our 
Rhubarb plantation in May. All the beds are Mam- 
moth Red. 

TRIMMING THE ROOTS AS THEY GROW 
LARGER. 

As the seasons go by the roots keep increasing in 
size at the same time. Although they are producing 
more stalks they are diminishing in size, growing 
long and slender. So we must find some way to 
check them, and keep them at a certain stage. This 
may be done simply by cutting off with the plow a 
portion of the roots that are too large, when plowing 
in the spring and fall. This will check the growth 
of the roots and give more substance to the stalks the 
coming season. This plan of pruning should be 
applied to both large and small beds. Trimming 
may be repeated as often as the roots get too large. 
The necessity of this may be noticed by the hills 
producing an abundance of small slender stalks 
which if not trimmed would soon produce an un- 
profitable crop. If only small beds are raised they 



40 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

may be pruned with a spade, which would be much 
handier in this case. If care is taken when trim- 
ming the roots to not cut off the crowns or damage 
the root part, they may be used for resetting new 
beds as it will not hurt the hills or the sets if proper- 
ly trimmed, but greatly benefit the former. This is 
very simple. Linnaeus and Victoria are the rankest 
growers and should receive more pruning than the 
other varieties. Always trim at the sides to keep the 
rows straight. Remember this if you wish to have 
large and tender stalks. On old beds it depends 
greatly in pruning. Our oldest bed is now twenty 
three years old and is as profitable as our young 
beds, it being as large and tender as the latter. This 
proves that good care, high cultivation and pruning 
will keep up a bed of Rhubarb as long, if not longer 
than any other perennial plant grown for market. 

FORCING RHUBARB. 

Quoted from Currie's Horticultural monthly: A 
nice dish of Rhubarb may be obtained occasionally 
early in the spring, long before the main crop comes 
in, with but very little trouble in the following man- 
ner. Secure several flour or apple barrels and 
knock the ends out of them. Set them over as many 
stools of Rhubarb growing in the garden. Then 
around them and to a depth level with their tops 
place a quantity of hot stable manure. Over the 
mouth or open ends of the barrels place short pieces 
of boards for lids leaving them a very little apart 
to allow the steam to escape that it may not damage 
the young shoots as they begin to spring up, which 
they shortly will after the covering is put on. 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 



41 








42 



RHUBARB CULTURE. 



MY PLAN OF FORCING RHUBARB IN 
GREEN HOUSES. 

Rhubarb is now grown quite extensively in Green 
Houses by some of our market gardeners and florists- 
It being a very simple and suitable plant for forcing 
under the benches, also a paying crop. The best 





Fig. iNo. it;. 
Log. 

plan is to dig the roots or the hills from the open 
ground in the fall about the latter part of October or 
the fore part of November before the ground freezes, 
as it would be impossible to dig them afterwards. 
The quickest way to dig them is to plow a furrow 
next to the hills throwing the soil away from them, 



T.V FRED. S. THOMPSON. 43 

then use a strong spade to dig around them and press 
them out with a log which is placed under the hills. 
Fig. No. 16 and 17 represents a log and a spade 
which is used for the purpose and is the quickest way 
of getting them out, without injuring the roots or 
the crown, that I know of. As soon as they are 
dug, place them in a cool shed or cellar where they 
will not grow but freeze instead, leave them there 
until ready to put in the green house. This way 
you may put as many as you wish in at a time, and 
have the pickings come at different times. I have 
tried them both ways, with and without freezing, but 
the former proved the best plan, as they start much 
quicker when placed in the green house. The most 
demand is towards spring, in February and March, 
although small quantities can be sold before this 
time, especially during the Holidays. Of course 
people must use good judgment in all such cases as 
it depends on the size of the place in which it is to 
be sold and the general demand for it. When dig- 
ging them leave as much dirt on as possible, and be 
careful about handling them when frozen so as not 
to break off the buds. When placing them in the 
Green House under the benches put them as close 
together as possible, sifting in the soil immediately 
to fill the intersexes between the roots. Cover over 
the buds or top of the roots with about two to five 
inches of soil to assist in drawing out the frost, leave 
tli is on about four or five days or until the frost is 
entirely out, then remove the soil on top and give 
them plenty of water and as much fresh air as possi- 
ble. The temperature should range from forty-five 
to seventy-five degrees. By following this rule Rhu- 



44 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

barb may be had from December to April or until it 
is marketable out doors. Sun or direct light is not 
at all necessary in growing Rhubarb in this manner, 
in fact the stalks are much tenderer when grown 
without direct light. Consequently they may be 
placed in any part of the Green House most conveni- 




Fig. No. 18. 

Double Dome Weathered Boiler. 

ent, in the furnace room of a cellar or in any place 
where it will receive the necessary temperature and 
moisture. I am raising large quantities of Rhubarb 
in this manner at the present time which proves 
very satisfactory under these principles. I have raised 
good Rhubarb sixteen inches long in twenty-four 
days after placing them in the houses, although the 
usual time is four to six weeks. Fig. No. 18 is a 
double dome weathered boiler which is used for 
forcing Rhubarb and other vegetables such as 
Lettuce, Radishes, Beets, Green Onions, Parsley, 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 45 

Mushrooms, Cauliflowers and Cucumbers, etc., which 
proves very satisfactory as they are economical in 
fuel and easy to regulate. 

The Linnseus, on account of its extreme earliness, 
is claimed by most people to be the best for forcing 
under glass, but as I have tried most of the varieties 
I will have to differ with them on this point. It is 
the earliest beyond a doubt, whether raised in the 
open field or forced. I do not consider the earliness 
of the variety any point of profit when forced under 
glass. The roots or hills must, of necessity, be dug 
up before the ground freezes, and when once thor- 
oughly frozen through may be immediately placed 
in the forcing house, if wanted, figuring on four 
weeks for a crop after placing them in the houses and 
having the roots stored in a convenient place, so they 
can be had at any time. Therefore you can very 
easily have the picking? come at any time when 
there will be a market for it. Furthermore, it is 
seldom wanted so early in the season; if so, in very 
small quantities. The Linnseus, when forced, in fact 
grows much faster than the late varieties, but after 
two or three pickings it becomes very small, almost 
unsalable. Its rapid growth bringing the pickings 
only a few days apart, must certainly draw very 
heavily on the roots, making the stalks small and 
exhausting the vitality of the roots. So I can not 
see any point of profit in the earliness of the variety, 
when forced. In this age of man reason must be 
based on facts, and as I have given you the facts you 
must judge accordingly. The best variety, if you 
wish to force it for profit, is the Mammoth or Large 
Red, as I have stated before. It produces large hand- 




Fig. No. 1!) 

Evan's Improved Ventilating Apparatus. 

some red stalks in abundance and is a quick seller, 
bringing the highest price. It grows slower than the 
former kind, does not grow spindling and produces 
salable stalks, much longer than Linnaeus, besides 
retaining the vitality in its roots much longer. I 
am forcing this variety at present and supplying the 
northern markets, there being quite a demand for 
the product, as it is only forced by few. Only heal- 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 



47 




W* : ' m 



Fig. No. 20. 
Mammoth Red Rhubarb Forced in Green House. 
thy roots should he used for forcing, and such the 
larger the better. Never separate them, but leave 
them whole, unless they are so large that they can- 
not be handled; if so, they will have to be divided. 
This is seldom necessary. But it has been so with 
us. They being so large and having considerable 
dirt attached to them, they could not be lifted into 
the wagon. They measured fully two and one-half 
feet long and eighteen inches wide. These hills 
averaged each one dozen bunches at a single picking, 
using sixty stalks to the dozen. Roots four years old 
may be used with good results, but the larger the 
better. The gross profit in forcing this plant ranges 



48 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

from fifty cents to a dollar per square foot of root 
surface. The price per dozen ranges from fifty cents 
to one dollar and a half, usually about seventy-five 
cents in this market. Fig. No. 20 represents Mam- 
moth Red growing under the benches, which was 
photographed in February. Fig. No. 19 represents 
the Evans' Improved Ventilating Apparatus, which 
is used for ventilating greenhouses, where Rhubarb 
and other vegetables are grown, as plenty of air can 
be given at all times with little or no trouble. 

FORCING RHUBARB IN HOT BEDS, 

Rhubarb can also be forced in hot beds by digging 
up the old hills in the fall before the ground freezes, 
store them away in a shed and let them freeze. 
When frozen, cover over with straw or coarse litter 
to keep them from thawing out in warm weather. 
Leave them here until the first of February, when 
the beds should be made ready for the roots. The 
beds should be prepared in deep pits or frames simi- 
lar to those used for forcing plants and early vege- 
tables. Place in these two feet of fresh horse ma. 
nure, which should be packed tightly; also two feet 
of manure in width around the sides and ends and 
as high as the frames. This should also be firmly 
packed. Place on the sash and let it stand till the 
bad steam has escaped. The sash should be covered 
every night as soon as the manure has been put in 
the frames, with mats made of rye straw. These 
should be removed in the morning to let the glass 
draw as much heat as possible. As soon as the bad 
steam has escaped, which is generally about one 
week (this depends on the freshness of the manure 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 



49 



and the way it is packed), four to six inches of soil 
should be spread over this; then place in the roots 
as close as possible, sifting in the soil between them 
to fill the vacant spaces. Cover with soil around 
them to the top of the roots and place on the sash 
as before, giving plenty of air on sunny days and 
an abundance of water. Keep the temperature about 
forty-five to fifty degrees at night and fifteen to twen- 
ty-five degrees higher in the daytime. This plan 
should produce Rhubarb in three or four weeks after 
the hills are placed in the beds. Rhubarb forced in 
this manner should average ten to fifteen dollars for 
every three by seven foot sash. This plan requires 
considerable labor, but you will be well paid if the 
manure is not too costly. Another plan of forcing 
Rhubarb in pits and which requires less labor may 
be done in the following manner: Dig the hills up 
in the fall and place them on mellow soil in the 
frames, which should be about two feet or two feet 
and a half high, set them as close together as possi- 
ble and fill the spaces between them with soil. As 
soon as cold weather appears cover them over with 
about eighteen inches of coarse litter and let them 
remain so until the weather is warm enough so they 
will not freeze at night, when they are covered up 
with the sash and straw mats. As they have no 
under heat, the only heat that can be retained is that 
which the sash draws during the day. So, when the 
weather is warm enough, remove the litter and place 
on the sash. At this season of the year only enough 
air should be admitted to keep them from burning 
and keep the atmosphere fresh. This plan may pro- 
duce the same quantity in weight as the former, but 



50 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

it is so much later that the price is considerably 
lower, as the shipped Rhubarb comes in at this time 
of the season. The grower can select his plan by 
considering the expense, labor and profits of each. 
It must be remembered, however, that forcing com- 
pletely destroys the roots, whether forced in green- 
houses or frames, and therefore is seldom practiced, 
only by those who have an abundance of roots, or 
where they would otherwise destroy them. 

THE VARIETIES. 

Bear this in mind, you will always be rewarded by 
sowing the best seeds and as well by planting the 
best roots, even if you pay double the price. The 
old variety of Rhubarb now grown is more than a 
century old, having been obtained in England as a 
hybrid from the original species received from Asia. 
The Linnaeus Rhubarb should be planted by all who 
wish the earliest in cultivation, it being about a week 
earlier than the Victoria; is very tender, being free 
from the tough stringy skin of most varieties; excel- 
lent for early picking and home use. When picked 
for market it should be wilted before tying it, to 
avoid breaking. It is used quite extensively for can- 
ning. It should not be planted for main crop, as it 
does not sell well after the later varieties come in the 
market, it being too small. This variety is generally 
recommended for forcing in Green Houses, but I 
prefer the larger varieties, as they are more profit- 
able. The roots should be trimmed when the hills 
get too large to keep the stalks marketable. 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 51 

VICTORIA. 

This variety grows much larger than the former 
kind and is next in earliness. It is now grown quite 
extensively for early market, being about ten days 
earlier than Mammoth Red, and produces from two 
to three pickings before that variety is marketable. 
The stalks have a striking appearance, are very 
tender and exceedingly good for home use. This 
variety is generally planted instead of the Linnseus 
as it grows larger and is more productive, producing 
great quantities of medium sized stalks. It is raised 
by most gardeners in this locality, and by some to the 
exclusion of all others. But as all vegetables have 
their limit, why should not this be the same. This 
is a medium early variety and should not be planted 
for a late market, although it may be picked at inter- 
vals of once a week during the season and bring a 
fair price, but it does not find as ready a market as 
the Mammoth Red, and therefore should not be 
planted to much extent. It is a very rank grower 
and should be pruned occasionally, as I have stated 
before. Victoria is used much for pies, tarts and 
canning, it being very juicy and having a rich spicy 
flavor, and is also used much for wine. Victoria is 
a great seed producing variety, often bearing ten seed 
stalks at a time. These are very injurious to the 
young stalks if left to grow taking a great quantity 
of nourishment from the roots; these should be cut 
off as they appear above the other stalks if not 
wanted for seed. If the latter is wished they may 
be left until the}' become a dark brown color, and 
when dry shake them off on a clean floor, put them in 
packages of some kind and keep in a dry place. It 



52 



RHUBARB CULTURE. 



is not safe to sow Rhubarb seed after it is two years 
old. Fig. No. 21 represents a bunch of Victoria. 

MAMMOTH, OR LARGE RED. 

This variety is the largest and most productive of 
all the kinds of Rhubarb, and ranks third in earliness. 
It is raised almost exclusively in this section for main 
crop. The name indicates its variety as it produces 

Ml 




Fig. No. 21. 

Victoria Khubarb. 

an abundance of mammoth stalks of dark red color, 
growing from four to five feet high and fully four 
inches in diameter. Finding sixty stalks in a hill is 
of no rare occurance and it is by far the best variety 
for main crop I have ever raised or seen. We have 
over three acres of this one variety and intend to 
increase this the following spring. The Mammoth 
Red finds a ready sale in Milwaukee from May to 
July, and may be picked in moderate amounts until 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 



53 



the fall. Oar last picking this season was the third 
of October, making almost rive months from when 
we started in the spring Of course these late pick- 
ings are of limited amounts and generally picked 
for our regular customers. If this variety is put to 




Fig. No. l"-'. 

Mammoth Keel Khubarb. 



high cultivation in open ground and forced in Green 
Houses during the winter it may be picked almost 
ten months in the year. Fig. No. 22 is a hill of 
Mammoth Red Rhubarb, photographed in May. 



54 



RHUBARB CULTURE. 



This kind is supposed to be catalogued under several 
assumed names, but is really the one variety. It is 
excellent for all purposes and makes handsome 
bunches for market. It may be carried to the house 
for preparing as soon as it is pulled, it having thick 
stout stalks and is not so liable to break as the Lin- 
nreus and Victoria. If my readers wish to force 




Fig. No. 23. 

St. Martins Khubarb. 

Rhubarb in Green Houses, plant the Mammoth Red 
by all means. As it will produce a greater quantity 
of large stalks than any other, and more than that, 
it will bring you a better profit for your labor. This 
being the point that all progressive farmers and gar- 
deners aim at, it should be remembered. Plant the 
best varieties and feed them and they will feed you. 
When digging the roots to be put in the forcing 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 55 

house they must be left whole and not divided. 
This variety needs very little pruning and produces 
very few seed stalks making it very easy to tend. 

ST. MARTINS. 

St. Martins Rhubarb is catalogued as a new variety, 
which originated a few years ago in Englaud, and is 
claimed to have a rich spicy flavor, very productive, 
and of a large size. It is also a late variety. I am 
trying this new kind this season and of course cannot 
speak of my own experience on this variety, but 
trusting to our esteemed seed man Mr. Henderson, 
who has the variety for sale, I think it would be 
worthy of a trial by all. Fig. No. 23 is a hill of St. 
Martins Rhubarb which shows its size and produc- 
tiveness. It is also very handsome in appearance. 

MAMMOTH GREEN. 

This kind is distinct in color from all the above 
varieties, being a light green and the latest cropper 
on our plantation. It grows about two and a half 
feet high and four to five inches in diameter. It is 
more inclined to be tough and stringy than the above 
varieties. Produces about half the number of stalks 
to the hill as the Mammoth Red. It is raised by us 
to a very limited extent for a late market, as it has 
great keeping qualities. It may be left a week or so, 
after the stalks are almost fully grown, before it has 
an old appearance. It can only be picked a few 
times during the season, but may be left several days 
after picking before it becomes unsalable. The 
large green is used by some for canning, claiming it 
to be sweeter, but I think this is only a notion as I 
can see no difference in it from the other varieties. I 



56 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

would not recommend it unless to be planted in 
small quantities for late use. The roots grow very 
slow and consequently need little or no pruning. 
Very few seed stalks are produced on this variety. 
There are numerous other varieties of but little or no 
importance, so I will not spend time to discuss them. 
We had at one time eleven varieties on our exper- 
imenting ground, but have discarded almost all of 
them. Some of them were almost worthless, produc- 
ing stalks of not more than six inches long, and tough 
enough to tie a knot. There have been several new 
kinds originated lately which are spoken of highly, 
although I do not think they will out-yield the old 
varieties. However, I have not the faith and time 
to try them. The American varieties of Rhubarb 
are distinct from the Turkish Medicine variety. 

HOW RHUBARB PAYS COMPARED WITH 
CERTAIN CROPS. 

Rhubarb is a paying crop when raised under the 
right cultivation, this nobody will attempt to deny. 
But it may be made an unprofitable crop just as easy 
and perhaps easier. And is made so by a great 
many farmers and gardeners. They thinking that it 
is not profitable give it little or no care, and conse- 
quently make nothing out of it. Why should they, 
is there any crop that is profitable without care, and 
good care at that? I don't think there is. These 
men are very progressive ones, they have so much 
to do they have no time to consider whether their 
crop is paying them or not and go on raising it. 
These men have not got their eyes open or else they 
are careless and don't stop to give it a thought. Here 



P.V FRED. S. THOMPSON. 57 

are two good mottos for them and to be thought of 
by everybody: ''No Cultivation, No Profits," "High 
Cultivation, Enormous Profits." If my readers will 
think of this and then look around them they 
will find it is true. Whatever the crop may be give 
it good care and prove whether it is profitable or 
not for you before you raise it extensively or before 
y u discard it. Now we will come down to business 
and figure on the production and profits. Gardeners 
sometimes in figuring the profits of any particular 
crop fail to charge anything for their land, and be- 
sides throw in their own time, and perhaps that of 
their hired man and children. This way they make 
a fair showing for their crop as they only charge it 
with the cash they have expended. But this is not 
the proper way. They should charge a fair price 
for all labor put on it; that of your hired man, 
your own, and that of your children, and also a fair 
percentage on the value of the land; the cost 
of seeds or roots, and fertilizers after all these are 
figured on, and deducted out of the gross cash, then 
one can begin to talk about net profits. Some would 
say figured in this light no crop would pay. I can't 
help it, that is the only fair way to figure it, and if 
your crops cannot stand these figures their cultivation 
should be improved. And let me tell you right here 
that the cultivation of the majority of crops should 
be improved. If you would take a trip through 
some of the farming districts in most any of the 
states you would certainly be convinced on this sub- 
ject of higher cultivation. Now let us figure a little 
on an average acre of Rhubarb in Wisconsin for a 
period of twenty years. The cost of production and 



58 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

profits no matter where it hits. My plan of figuring 
on an acre is not a rough guess but an accurate ac- 
count. Say the acre is twenty rods long by eight 
rods wide, deducting out three alleys of ten feet wide 
each running lengthwise. Planting the roots four by 
four feet would make three beds one and one half 
row, this would make two thousand one hundred and 
three hills in an exact acre. These would cost about 
ten cents each by the quantity, or two hundred and 
ten dollars and thirty cents. This would seem by 
some, before they stop to think, an enormous sum 
for planting an acre. But remember when once 
planted it is planted for twenty years, and forty years 
if you wish to grow it that long, and after it is four 
or five years old you may set out a dozen acres from 
one acre by dividing the old roots. So it is not such 
an enormous price as it seems at the first thought. 
Now I will give you the figures on an acre of Rhubarb 
for a period of twenty years which will not vary 
much from the actual cost on our farm for the same 
number of years past. 

Roots, 2103 at 10c each $ 210 30 

Plowing, first year 1 50 

Throwing away the dirt from the rows with a two 

horse plow in the fall for 19 years, at 50c per 

year 9 50 

Plowing back the soil in the spring with a one horse 

plow for 19 years, at 25c a year 4 75 

Harrowing and crushing first year 50 

25% loads of manure yearly at $1.50 per load would 

make $38.25, for 20 years 765 00 

Marking and setting out first year 3 00 

Hoeing $1.50 per year for 20 years 30 00 

Twine, $2.00 per year, for 18 years 36 00 

Preparing for market, $50.38 per year, for 18 years, 906 84 
Cannot market it before two years after planting. 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 59 

Marketing it 18 years $ 324 00 

Interests for first five years at $100.00 per acre at 

5 per cent 25 00 

Next 10 years $400.00 per acre at 5 per cent 200 00 

Last five years $800.00 per acre at 5 per cent 200 00 

Total expenses for twenty years, - - $2,716 39 

One acre of Rhubarb will produce three thousand 
three hundred and eighty-three dozens yearly. Say 
the price will average seventeen cents per dozen, that 
will amount yearly to five hundred and seventy-five 
dollars and eleven cents, or in eighteen years to ten 
thousand three hundred and fifty -one dollars and 
ninety-eight cents. Expenses for twenty years two 
thousand seven hundred and sixteen dollars and 
thirty-nine cents. This will leave a net profit of 
seven thousand six hundred and thirty five dollars 
and fifty-nine cents in twenty years, or an average of 
three hundred and eighty-one dollars and seventy- 
eight cents yearly net profits. Now we will compare 
the cost of production and net profits of an acre of 
Onions for the same number of years. 

Plowing yearly $1.50 20 years, $ 30 00 

Manure and Fertilizers yearly $70.00 " 1,400 00 

Harrowing twice " .60 " 12 00 

Pulverizing " .50 " 10 00 

Crushing " .40 " 8 00 

Sowing the Seed " 1.00 " 20 00 

Seed, 5 lbs., " 10.00 " 200 00 

Wheel hoeing six times " 9.50 " 190 00 

Weeding three times " 20.00 " 400 00 

Pulling Onions " 3.00...... " 60.00 

Cutting off onions " 9.00 " 180 00 

Marketing " 12.00 " 240 00 

Interests same as Rhubarb 425 00 

Total expenses ; $3,175 00 



60 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

The expenses placed at the lowest figures are four 
hundred and fifty-eight dollars and sixty-one cents 
more than Rhubarb for the same period of cultiva- 
tion. Say the crop of Onions is six hundred bushels 
per acre yearly and the average price fifty cents a 
bushel, which I think is a fair price, this would 
•amount yearly to three hundred dollars, and for 
twenty years six thousand dollars. The total ex- 
penses are three thousand one hundred and seventy- 
five dollars, this will leave a net profit of two thousand 
eight hundred and twenty-five dollars for twenty 
years. This would make one hundred and forty- 
one dollars and twenty-five cents net profit yearly. 
This would be two hundred and forty dollars and 
fifty cents less yearly than Rhubarb, and in twenty 
years would amount to four thousand eight hundred 
and ten dollars less than Rhubarb. To produce a 
crop of onions that will yield six hundred bushels 
per acre will take at least half a ton of Guano fertil- 
izer, also a greater quantity of manure than Rhubarb. 
The cultivation will be more expensive and the seed 
will cost for a period of twenty years two hundred 
dollars or only ten dollars and thirty cents less than 
the Rhubarb roots. More experience is necessary in 
raising onions profitably than the former. Taking 
everything into consideration, the experience re- 
quired, the laborious work of weeding, wheel hoeing 
and with a possibility of only a half crop every few 
years, due to poor seed that will not germinate, I 
think you will find Rhubarb a more profitable and 
pleasant crop than any other when raised under 
high cultivation and near a good home market. 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 61 



POTATOES COMPARED WITH RHUBARB. 

Here is a crop that is raised by most all tillers of 
the soil, so we should be well posted on this vege- 
table. Although the expenses are much lighter 
than most of the vegetables, there is less profit. As 
I have stated heretofore, little cultivation, small 
profits. But even this crop may be made exceeding- 
ly profitable when grown in certain ways and for 
particular purposes, as when raised for seed. An 
acre under good care may bring seven hundred dol- 
lars, if you can sell them for that purpose. But the 
little word if may be in the way when it comes to 
sell that many for seed, unless you are widely known. 
A profitable crop may be grown on sod, as the ground 
would not be in good condition for most root crops, 
and besides would assist in the decomposition of the 
sod, and by the second season would be in goodshape- 
for other crops. A profitable crop may be raised by 
planting the varieties that will yield enormous crops 
under the highest of cultivation. The potato crop 
grown by the majority of the people is not a paying 
crop, compared with Rhubarb or most of the vege- 
tables. The following are the figures for an acre of 
Potatoes on the same basis as the former crops : 

Plowing, yearly, $1.50 20 years, $ 30 00 

Harrowing twice, yearly, 50c 10 00- 

Pulverizing with smoothing Harrow, year- 
ly, 25c " 5 00 

Crushing, yearly, 25c 5. 00 

Marking, " 25c " 5 00 

Seed, 10 bus., 50c per bu., yearly, $5.00 " 100 00 

Covering with cultivator, yearly, 30c " 6 00' 

Cultivating four times, yearly, $2.00 " 40 0O 



62 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

Hoeing and pulling out weeds missed by 

cultivator, yearly, $1.25 20 years, $25 00 

Keeping off Bugs, yearly, $2.00 " 40 00 

Digging and picking up, yearly, $4.00 " 80 00 

Marketing, yearly, $5.00 " 100 00 

Manure, yearly, $20.00 " 400 00 

Interest on value of Land same as Rhu- 
barb 425 00 

Expenses for 20 years $1271 00 

Expenses yearly 63 55 

Under this cultivation they will produce about 
three hundred bushels to the acre. This is a big 
yield, and with an average price of fifty cents per 
bushel would make one hundred and fifty dollars 
yearly, or three thousand dollars gross cash for 
twenty years. Deducting one thousand two hundred 
and seventy-one dollars for expenses, would leave a 
net profit of one thousand seven hundred and twen- 
ty-nine dollars, and a yearly profit of eighty-six dol- 
lars and forty-five cents, which would be called a fair 
profit. This is two hundred and ninety-five dollars 
and thirty-three cents less than Rhubarb yearly, and 
fifty-four dollars and eighty cents less than Onions 
yearly, and would be five thousand nine hundred 
and six dollars and sixty cents less than Rhubarb 
for twenty years. I do not think it would be profit- 
able to raise potatoes, if there is a market for the for. 
mer. Of course, as I have stated, it would pay 
under certain cultivation and in locations adapted 
to it. 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 63 



WHEAT, THE COST OF PRODUCTION AND 
NET PROFITS. 



THE YEARLY COST AND YEARLY PROFITS, AND COST AND 

PROFITS FOR TWENTY YEARS, COMPARED WITH 

RHUBARB. 



As wheat is a farm product, I wish my farmer 
readers to take special care in comparing it with 
Rhubarb and the other crops I have mentioned. 

Plowing, yearly, $1.50 20 years, $ 30 00 

Harrowing and crushing, yearly, 75c ' 15 00 

Seed, 1% bus., yearly, $1.25 " 25 00 

Sowing, yearly, 15c " 3 00 

Cutting and binding with self-binder, year- 
ly, $1.00 " 20 00 

Hauling to stack, yearly, $1.00 " 20 00 

Threshing, yearly, 75c " 15 00 

Marketing it, yearly, 15c " 3 00 

Interest, same as Rhubarb 425 00 

Total expenses $556 00 

Yearly cost twenty-seven dollars and eighty cents 
average yield eighteen bushels per acre which may 
bring a dollar a bushel or eighteen dollars, this would 
make a loss of nine dollars and eighty cents yearly 
or a loss of one hundred and ninty-six dollars in 
twenty years and only the straw used as manure or 
fertilizer to keep up the fertility of the soil. Expenses 
for twenty years five hundred and fifty-six dollars. 
Cash received for crop eighteen dollars yearly or three 
hundred and sixty dollars which is a loss of one 
hundred and ninty-six dollars. The net profits of an 
acre of Rhubarb for twenty years is seven thousand 



64 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

six hundred and thirty-five dollars and fifty-nine 
cents, this would make the enormous loss of seven 
thousand eight hundred and thirty-one dollars and 
fifty-nine cents for twenty years, if wheat was grown 
instead of Rhubarb. The comparisons I have given 
are to show the financial difference in the crops. 
Rhubarb, as with man)'' other vegetables, can only be 
grown to a certain extent, or the amount that can be 
consumed in the market or the amount that can be 
shipped to other markets and bring a fair net profit 
whatever it may be should be grown, and then the 
next most profitable vegetable and so on. 

DIGGING AND SEPARATING THE ROOTS 
FOR SETTING OUT NEW BEDS. 

When setting out new beds, roots may often be 
obtained from your neighbors or in the vicinty you 
live. When such is the case, they may often be 
bought by the hill and seperate them yourself after- 
wards, which will lessen the expense of the roots. 
Hills bought this way are worth from one dollar to 
one dollar and a half according to the age and size 
of the roots. I have been offered three dollars for 
large hills, but this is an exception. When large hills 
are separated they will be from ten to twenty buds 
or separate roots, and different varieties varying from 
this. The hills are easiest dug with a long handle 
spade, a loy and shovel. The loy is to cut under them 
and assist in pressing them out. Farmers and Gar- 
deners use this tool a great deal for digging holes 
for posts and pillars. Furrows plowed along the side 
of them will also help in loosening them. The hills 
are divided by breaking apart each eye or bud with 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 65 

a root attached; these forming a plant. Long sprangly 
roots should be cut off' to assist in the transplanting 
as if left on, the holes have to be much larger which 
will take extra time. It is best that the long roots 
be cut off, for as soon as they are transplanted they 
will immediately throw out young rootlets which 
will feed the young plant more than if the old roots 
are left on. The price of good single roots varies 
from ten to twenty cents a piece according to the 
variety and quantity of roots wanted. They can 
generally be obtained by the quantity for fifteen 
dollars per hundred. 

PACKING THE ROOTS FOR SHIPPING. 

This is a matter for which it is not so easy to give 
accurate directions, as the distance and season in 
which it is to be shipped will greatly determine the 
the manner in which it is to be done. But a general 
direction may assist the inexperienced. As the roots 
are generally set out during the summer, that is the 
time when they must be shipped. If the tempera- 
ture is high, provision must be made in the packages 
for the admission of air to prevent the roots from 
heating. They are usually packed in barrels or 
boxes according to the convenience of the packer, 
and the quantity that is to be shipped. Cut hay 
or straw may be used between the roots in packing 
to keep them from heating. Moss is the article 
mostly used for that purpose, and is best if it can 
be obtained. I have shipped roots from Milwaukee 
to Seattle, Washington, in the hottest part of the 
summer packed with hay cut about an inch long, 
and had them keep perfect and good. The judg- 



6Q RHUBARB CULTURE. 

ment of the shipper must be exercised in respect to 
the quantity of moss, or dry cut hay in which the 
roots are to be packed, only using enough to keep 
them from heating, as it is bulky and would only 
increase the Express charge. 

ESSENTIAL POINTS IN THE PRODUCTION 
OF GOOD RHUBARB. 

The plans and practices of the system of cultiva- 
ing good Rhubarb require considerable time and 
space to note on paper. The important points 
between that and the plan generally practiced are so 
very different that I will state the former plans in as 
minute details as possible. Each hill or plant is 
cultivated as a separate or individual rapid grow- 
ing subject, and necessarily must require consider- 
able space for nature to grow it. If a vigorous 
growth and strong healthy roots are desired, good 
judgment and long experience in growing such 
vegetables has convinced growers that a smaller space 
than four or five feet apart each way can not pos- 
sibly give the best of crops. Although this may 
seem like a waste of ground, it is not so, for when 
the Rhubarb has attained its regular size, its massive 
roots generally fill the whole space allotted to it, 
therefore the result of wide cultivation for such 
crops is so much more satisfactory than the old way, 
commonly employed, that the same amount of 
surface produces a greater and finer stock of Rhubarb, 
and utilizing the ground to a more satisfactory 
return. There are two very important ways of 
growing this crop. The first in growing it exten- 
sively for market as with us. The other growing for 



EY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 67 

private use, as placing roots along fences in small 
plants or fruits, or most anywhere where it will 
receive the necessary space. This plan is important 
because it can be carried out in small gardens and 
people will become more acquainted with the habits 
of its growth in giving plenty of room. Separate 
hills planted here and there in the garden and among 
small trees along fences, or in small fruits, would soon 
convince growers of the most essential and important 
point in allowing sufficient room for it to grow, as 
we find by experience that it is impossible to grow 
hills in too small a place, and receive the best of 
results. They will also be convinced that it is unpro- 
fitable as well as impossible when growing it exten- 
sively for market, as with the market gardeners and 
with us, to give the hills too small a space. When 
market gardeners are limited for space they might 
plant as close as three by four feet, but I would not 
advise any closer. Four by four or four by five feet 
will give the finest and most profitable crop that can 
be grown. Eyes or buds separated from the old roots 
of five or ten year old plants, are generally used, al- 
though healthy yearling plants may be used with 
good results when others can not be obtained. These 
are generally planted at the close of the Rhubarb 
season, which is the last of June. Only large healthy 
roots should be planted, all others should be thrown 
away, as bad goods are always dear, and more 
especially in the case of unhealthy roots. Rich 
manure and composts should be used liberally in the 
spring, the ground should be well loosened between 
and around the hills so the manure, sun and rain 
can easily penetrate, which will give nourishment 



68 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

and promote them wonderfully. Seed stalks should 
be removed as soon as they appear above the leaves 
of the other stalks, as they draw heavily on the roots. 
The beds should be kept clean of all weeds and 
grasses, especially Canada thistles and quack grass 
If the finest quality and largest size of stalk is desir- 
ed it should not be pulled excessively. When pull- 
ing always leave the slender stalks if they are short 
enough so they will not be injured by the wind, if not 
they had better be picked. Never place coarse 
litter on the beds in the fall if you wish to pick it 
early. This plan should only be practiced on young 
beds. Always plow a furrow in the fall along side 
of the rows, throwing a part of the soil back, to give 
the sun its full power in drawing out the frost in the 
spring; this being essential for early picking. Last, 
but not by any means least, we should have the best 
variety which is about as necessary as anything else. 
The Mammoth Red is by all means the very best 
for every purpose. By taking all these things into 
consideration and following them as I have stated no 
one can help but have success, and which I think 
I can assure them. 

RHUBARB OUT WEST. 

Quoted from Curries Monthly Horticultural Journal. 

In conversation recently with a gentlemen from 
Omaha, Nebraska, who is engaged in horticulture 
there, we learned that in that country Rhubarb is in 
season all summer. Our informant said that he 
believed that vegetables can be grown to greater per- 
fection there than in any other part of the world. 
He has been engaged in gardening for a good many 



BY FRED. S THOMPSON. 69 

years in several sections of this country and Europe, 
but in all his experience he never saw such Rhubarb 
as is grown in Omaha. In our state as in every 
other quarter of the globe, as far as we have learned 
with this one exception it is only for a month or two 
in spring and early summer that Rhubarb is tender 
and luscious to be eaten with a relish, but in Omaha 
it would appear it retains its delicious flavor, and is 
tender and not stringy through the entire summer. 
We presume it must be the climate and not the soil 
which conduces to this unusual result. 

RECEIPTS FOR THE USES OF RHUBARB. 
PIE PLANT WINE. 

Rhubarb is used in large quantities for wine called 
Pie Plant Wine, and is becoming to be quite a popu- 
lar beverage. It is a very pleasant drink, and has 
received high praise by many. It should be left 
several years before it is used, to give it a pleasant 
and wine like taste, or for an example it is the same 
as all other wines the longer it stands before it is 
used the better it is. The following is one of the best 
receipts for making pie plant wine. To one gallon 
of juice add one gallon of rain water, two and one 
half lbs. of Muscavado sugar, or common brown 
sugar, two gills of cologne spirits, or California brandy. 
It can be made in any quantity desired in propor- 
tion to this receipt. It should not be made before 
the middle of July, then the juice is more mature, or 
in a better condition for that purpose. After it is 
made it can be put out in a shed or barn or any 
covered structure to keep it out of the sun. A warm 
cellar is a good place, as cold nights will not stop fer- 



70 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

mentation. After it is made put it in barrels or jugs, 
which must be full; if in jugs, leave the cork out so 
the pumice can run out, as in a few days fermen- 
tation will set in. If in a barrel leave the bung out. 
It will probably ferment about six months, this may 
be noticed by a hissing sound. A month or so after 
the hissing sound ceases siphon it off. After this 
every four or five months siphon it off, or drain it off 
carefully till no settlings exist. Then put it into a 
new barrel. If put in old barrels they are apt to be 
moldy and the flavor of some other brands of liquor 
might spoil the taste. The best sugar to use is 
imported Muscavado, which is the raw material 
from which loaf and lump sugar are obtained by 
refining. The common brown sugar that is sold by 
grocers is generally used for private use, or in small 
quantities. Granulated sugar can also be used but 
does not give it as nice a flavor, and makes the wine 
a light color. After it is racked off it should stand 
in the coolest part of the cellar to keep the warm air 
away from it for fear of a second fermentation, 
which would cloud it in looks. Pure water should 
be used, but not any tinged with a mineral taste. If 
the brandy is full strength there will be little or no 
fear of a second fermentation. Any liquor may be 
used, but not alcohol, if you wish to flavor it, as that 
only gives it strength. The need of spirits is to give 
it flavor, as well as strength, and to keep it from 
second fermentation as well. 1 consider pure col- 
ogne spirits preferable to other liquors, as it is 
strong and imparts no odor. Barrels that have 
cologne spirits in are safe to use, as no flavor will 
come from them. 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 71 

RHUBARB TART. 

To one quart of stewed Rhubarb add three-fourth 
pounds of granulated sugar, five eggs, five ounces of 
pulverized crackers, after the Rhubarb is stewed put 
through a seive. The other ingredients should be 
mixed well. Use only a bottom crust and bake 
three-quarters of an hour. 

RHUBARB PIE. 

Peel and stew Rhubarb. Add juice of half a 
lemon, well beaten yokes of two eggs, and sweeten 
with a half cup full of granulated sugar. Line pie 
tins with a good crust, and fill the tins with Rhubarb; 
bake until the crust is a light brown, beat the whites 
of the eggs to a froth adding three tablespoonsful 
of powdered sugar. Flavor with nutmeg or vanilla 
and spread over the top of the pies, place in the oven 
and leave till a delicious brown. 

PIE PLANT PIE. 

Wash and peel. Place in a chopping bowl and 
chop up fine, turn off the juice. Line your tins with 
pie crust, fill up the pan with chopped plant, and one 
tea cup full of sugar, three tablespoonsful of cream 
cr a piece of butter size of a hickory nut, cut in small 
pieces and place around on the plate, cover with pie 
crust and bake in hot oven. 

CANNING RHUBARB. 

Wash Rhubarb. Cut in small pieces. To every 
pound of Rhubarb add one-half pound of granulated 
sugar, bring slowly to a boil, stir at intervals to keep 
from burning. When thoroughly cooked through 
pour in cans hot and seal tightly. 



72 RHUBARB CULTURE. 

CANNING RHUBARB. 

To put up Rhubarb for winter use wash the stalks, 
cut in small pieces, peel, and place in cold water in 
jars and seal tightly. 

RHUBARB JELLY. 

Wash Rhubarb. Cut in small pieces stew to a soft 
pulp, squeeze out the juice. To a pound of juice add 
a pound of granulated sugar, place again on the 
stove and stew until thick enough for jelly, put in 
tumblers, cover top of jelly with a round piece of 
tissue paper saturated with whisky or white of an 
egg, cover top of tumblers with paper tying tightly. 

RHUBARB JELLY. 

Wash the stalks and let them dry, do not pare 
them. Cut the stalks up in pieces of one or one-half 
inches long. Place them in a porcelain lined kettle. 
To every eight pounds of Rhubarb add one and one- 
half pints of water. Boil until the small pieces are 
soft. Place in a jelly bag, do not squeeze the juice out, 
but place over something and let it drip. Add to 
every pint of this juice three-quarter pound of sugar, 
boil and fix same as other jelly. 

PIE PLANT SAUCE. 

A palatable sauce may be made by cutting up the 
the stalks into inch pieces, put in a porcelain lined 
kettle. To a quart of the plant add one tea cup full 
of sugar, stew slowly and stir at intervals to keep 
from burning; stew to a soft pulp and let cool. 

RHUBARB JAM. 

Always wash the stalks, do not pare them, cut into 
pieces an inch or so long. Weigh the Rhubarb. 



BY FxiED. S. THOMPSON. 73 

To every pound of Rhubarb, add one pound of gran- 
ulated sugar; place in a porcelain lined kettle; let 
it come slowly to a boil, then stir continually for half 
an hour; place in jars or cans and seal tight. 

RELIABLE SEEDSMEN. 

As the first great object of raising vegetables is to 
have seeds and plants fresh and true to name, I will 
recommend to my readers a valuable list of Seedsmen 
whom I have dealt with and found to be reliable. 

The following are their names and addresses. 
Peter Henderson & Co., 35 to 37 Cortlandt St., N. Y. 
James H. Gregory & Son, Marblehead, Mass. 
James Thorburn & Co., 15 John St., New York. 
Currie Brothers, 312 Broadway, Milwaukee, Wis. 
Storris & Harrison, Painesville, Ohio. 
Win. Henry Maule, 1711 Filbert St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
Johnson & Stokes, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Isaac F. Tillinghost, La Plume, Pa. 






74 



RHUBARB CULTURE. 



THE TIME USUALLY REQUIRED FOR VEGETABLE 
SEEDS TO GERMINATE. 



Beets, 


8 to 12 ( 


lays 


Lettuce, . 


5 to 10 days 


Beans, . . 


5 <• 10 


it 


Peas, 


. 5 " 12 " 


Celery, . 


12 " 20 


u 


Onions, 


8 " 12 " 


Corn, . . 


6 " 9 


k( 


Parsnips, 


. 9 " 14 " 


Carrots, . 


9 " 15 


n 


Radish, 


3 " 8 " 


Cabbage, . 


5 " 12 


« 


Pepper, . 


. 8 " 12 " 


Endive, . 


6 " 10 


« 


Salsify, 


5 " 10 '• 


Cauliflower 


4 " 9 


ii 


Tomatoes, 


. 5 " 10 " 


Cucumber, 


5 " 12 


(( 


Turnip, 


5 " 7 " 



THE QUANTITY OF SEED GARDENERS GENERALLY 
SOW TO AN ACRE. 



Asparagus, 

Beans, Pole 

Beets, . . 

Carrots, 

Corn, 

Cucumber, 

Melon, Mush 

Onions, 

Peas. . 

Potatoes, Cu 

Radish, 

Salsify, 

Sage, . 

Squash, 

Turnip, 

Barley, 

Oats, . 

Wheat, 

Rye, . 

Timothy Seed 

Barley, 

Millet, 

Buckwheat, 



in hills, 
in drills, 
in drills, 
in hills, 
in hills, 
in hills, 
in drills, 
in drills, 
in hills, 
in drills, 
in drills, 
in drills, 
in hills, 
in drills, 
broadcast, 
broadcast, 
broadcast, 
broadcast, 
broadcast, 
broadcast, 
broadcast, 
broadcast, 



4 to 
9 to 

5 to 
2 to 

6 to 
1 to 

1 to 
4 to 

2 to 

6 to 
6 to 

2 to 
1 to 

3 to 
1 to 
1 to 



2$ to 

1 to 
1 to 



6 Pounds. 

10 Quarts. 

8 Pounds. 

4 Pounds. 

5 Quarts. 
2 Pounds. 

2 Pounds. 

6 Pounds. 
. 3 Bushel. 
10 Bushel. 

8 Pounds. 
8 Pounds. 
8 Pounds. 

3 Pounds. 
2 Pounds. 

Bushel. 

Bushel. 

Bushel. 

Bushel. 

Bushel. 

Bushel. 
H Bushel. 
2 Bushel. 



BY FRED. S. THOMPSON. 



75 



STANDARD WEIGHTS OF VARIOUS ARTICLES 



Beans, 60 

Broom Corn, ... 46 

Buckwheat, ... 52 

Kentucky Blue Grass, 14 

Castor Beans. ... 46 

Corn, shelled, ... 56 

Clover, 60 

Corn on ear, ... 68 

" Meal, ... 50 

Flax Seed, .... 56 

Cranberries, ... 40 
Hungarian Grass Seed, 48 

Millet, 50 

Irish Potatoes, . . 60 

Oats, 32 



Onions, . . . 
Orange Grass, 
Peas, . . . 
Rye, . . . . 
Red top Seed, 
Sweet Potatoes 
Turnips, . . 
Timothy Seed, 
Wheat, . . 
Lawn Grass, 
Parsnips, . 
Beets, . . 
Carrots, 
Hemp Seed, 



54 

34 
60 
56 
14 
56 
58 
45 
60 
14 
55 
55 
55 
44 



THE REQUIRED NUMBER OF TREES, PLANTS, ETC, 
TO SET AN ACRE. 



DISTANCE. 




N I M HER. 


DISTANCE. 




NUMl'.ER. 


1 ft. X 


ift, 


174,240 


4 


ft. x 5 


ft-, 


2,178 


1 ft. X 


1 ft., 


4:j,560 


5 


ft. x 5 


ft. 


1,742 


1 ft. X 


n ft., 


2!> ) 035 


6 


ft. x 5 


ft., 


1,452 


H ft. x 


Hft., 


10,360 


6 


ft. x 6 


ft. 


1,200 


2 ft. x 


.2 ft., 


10,890 


8 


ft. x 8 


ft. 


in;2 


2 ft. x 


2i ft. 


8,712 


10 


ft. x 10 


ft. 


435 


3 ft. x 


1 ft. 


14,520 


15 


ft. x 15 


ft. 


104 


3 ft. x 


2 ft. 


7,260 


15 


ft. x 20 


ft., 


145 


3 ft. x 


2i ft., 


5,808 


20 


ft. x 20 


ft, 


103 


3 ft, x 


3 ft. 


4,840 


30 


ft. x 30 


ft. 


40 


4 ft. x 


4 ft. 


2 722 


40 


it. x 40 


ft. 


27 



76 RHUBARB CULTURE. 



CLOSING REMARKS. 



TO MY FRIENDS, GARDENERS AND READERS. 



In this advanced age of man and science we must 
continually look for great things. With all the 
knowledge of present books, machinery and labor- 
saving tools, the gardener at present and in the 
future needs to be a director and not a man of 
drudgery. The heavy and tiresome work in times 
past can be mostly avoided now by horses and 
improved machinery. When the bright young 
men of this age open their eyes to the improve- 
ments in the agricultural world, and can see both 
money and pleasure in their undertaking and 
plenty of exercise for their health, talent for the 
brains, and a happy and healthy home, we may 
look for a higher cultivation of crops, larger yield, 
and greater profits in all and every crop. I have 
now finished my treatise, giving you the result of my 
own knowledge and experience in growing this 
vegetable, together with my personal observation in 
a town where several hundred tons are grown yearly,, 
besides facts that I have received by corresponding 
in other sections of the country. Therefore I most 
sincerely hope that the readers of this treatise will 
appreciate its advice. 



Established 1S59. Incorporated 1893. 

THOS. W. WEATHERED'S SONS, 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



HOT WATER BOILERS 

for heating Green Houses, Dwellings, Conservatories, 
Poultry Houses, Factories, Etc. 



FACTORY: 

196 to 204 Orient Avenue, 
JERSEY CITY. 



OFFICE: 

244 Canal Street, 
NEW YORK. 



▼ ▼ ▼ T ▼ 

Sectional Yievd of Improved Double Don\e Boilers. 




No. 24. 
IMPROVED WEATHERED BOILER. 

I wish to say a few words about my own experience in 
regard to the Weathered Boilers. I use them altogether in 
my Green Houses and find them to be what the manufac- 
turers claim for them : Simple in Construction so as not to 
need an experienced hand, as they may be regulated as easy 
as a coal stove; Economical in fuel and durable in construc- 
tion, not needing any repairs for years. Write to me for 
particulars. 

FRED. S. THOMPSON, 



P. O. Box 24. 



Bay View, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 



IaT \t£ IfoiDpSOD S.3 0I)S ' 

CHOlCEjEE D POTATOES. 

ALL THE NEW LEADING VARIETIES. 

New Late Puritan Potato, .... 

Yield 900 Bushels Per Acre. 

Send for List of Varieties and Prices. 



mtm m ■ 



j?t}tibapb ^J?oots. * 

BEST VARIETIES for Market and Private Use. 

Victoria, Medium Early, per dozen $ 2 00 

" " " per hundred 15 00 

" " " per thousand 150 00 

Mammoth Red, used for main crop, most prolific 

Rhubarb grown, per dozen 2 00 

" " per hundred 15 00 

per thousand 150 00 

Prices varied on large orders. 



CABBAGE PLANT, READY BY JUNE 1st. 

Fottler's Brunswick, per hundred, 25c. Per thousand, $2 00 
Early Deep Head, " 25c. " 2 00 

Holland New, " 25c. " 2 00 

W. W. THOMPSON & SONS, 

P. O. Box 24. Bay View, Milwaukee, Wis. 



Quaker CitvJ /Machine Co., 

Cor. N. 14th St. and R. R. - - - RICHMOND, IND. 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

Evans Improved Challenge Ventilating Apparatus. 

Used for Ventilating Green Houses, Conservatories, Factories, Etc. Roller 
Bearing Automatic Oiling Device. New Solid Link Chain. 




The above engraving shows the Evans Ventilating Apparatus in operation- 
I would like to say a word in behalf of the Quaker City Machine Co- 
That the Evans Improved Ventilating Apparatus put up in my houses are 
entirely satisfactory. They are simple to put up as each part is labeled 
with directions, work perfectly, and being made of the best material 
need no repairs whatever. These machines are made so as to be conven- 
ient for any shape of house. For particulars write to 

FRED. S. THOMPSON, 
P. O. Box 24. Bay View, Milwaukee, Wis. 



The Sfeifz Potato Btig Sprinkler. 



PATENT BRUSH SPRINKLER. 

A practical Machine that will rapidly and successfully perform a work 
that has heretofore been slowly and tediously done by hand. 

How many hands and horses it takes, how much time and money it 
costs, how the sprinkling you begin on a fair day is stopped by stormy 
ones? You know all this better than we. 

But may be you do not know how easily, cheaply and quickly it is pos- 
sible to sprinkle potatoes; that you can take a STEITZ SPRINKLER 
into the field, and in a single day sprinkle from 10 to 15 acres. 

This way you do not need any hands to help, and only oue horse; the 
machine does the work. All you have to do is to fill the tank with water 
and Paris Green. 

FACTS WORTH KNOWING. 

Only from 5 to 8 gallons of water and from % to %, pounds of Paris 
Green are required to the acre. 

Machines are all made to straddle two rows 2 feet 10 inches, or 3 feet 2 
inches apart. Apply for circular to— 

J. R. STEITZ, Manufacturer, 

Milwaukee Co. CUDAHY, WIS. 




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